A great suit is unlike anything else in your closet—timeless and elegant, certainly, but also difficult to get right. The process of choosing, buying and caring for fine tailoring is often fraught with tough decisions, confusing jargon and conflicting opinions. That’s why we’ve assembled an all-star roster of the world’s most knowledgeable menswear experts to definitively answer all of your sartorial questions. Welcome to GQ’s Ask a Tailor.
With the exception of the laws of physics, pretty much every other rule ever made—including the rules around traditional menswear—is somebody’s opinion. This makes such do’s and don’ts both subjective and, as history continues to prove, more than likely to sound ridiculous in a decade or two. That said, there are still rules to know and missteps to avoid, and understanding them (even if only to break them) can be the key to looking absolutely smoldering in a suit.
As ever, knowing your way around conventions like trouser length (they should touch the tops of your shoes), sock choice (crews in solid, muted colors) and whether or not to wear a tie (mostly up to you!) will help you avoid some of the most common faux-pas. For a more comprehensive rundown on the state of the suit in 2024, we tapped our roster of menswear experts for their best advice, from the philosophical to the highly specific.
A beautiful suit that doesn’t fit properly is going to look terrible on you. On the other hand, if you have a cheap suit and a good tailor who can fit you well, it’s going to look great. —Bruce Boyer, elder statesman of American menswear, Ask a Tailor consigliere and jazz fan
A little room in your suit is never a bad thing, it will be more comfortable to wear. You can't look good if you're not comfortable. —Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury
If everybody is wearing high-rise trousers and you’re wearing trousers with a six-inch rise, people will say your trousers don’t fit properly. But that’s not about fit, it’s about fashion. Instead, think more about the line of a garment and the silhouette, which should reflect the fashion of the moment as well as your individual preferences. —BB
“If you can see the wallet, keys, cell phone or change bulging in your pockets, your pants are likely too tight. Likewise, your jacket should cover your seat. Shorter jackets don’t make you look more casual – they make you look like you have a jacket that doesn’t fit.” —Matthew Woodruff, creative director at J.Mueser
“For me, that means a single-breasted, two-button or three-roll-two jacket, probably with side vents, and a not-too-slim-but-not-too-full pair of pants. With the help of a trusted tailor, that’s going to get you 90 per cent of the way there.” —Sid Mashburn, founder of Sid Mashburn
“A fabric like an Italian four-season wool will offer comfort and flexibility across different climates and occasions. Once your foundation is set, there is always time to expand into patterns and different fabrics like heavy tweeds, airy linens or gabardine.” —Todd Snyder, founder of Todd Snyder
“Finding a silhouette that suits your body shape and personal style is key. Consider experimenting with details like side tab pleated trousers or swapping out the jacket for alternative pieces like a tailored chore jacket or bomber done in suiting fabrics.” —TS
“Not all suits are necessarily formal. The only thing that makes a suit a suit is that the trousers and the jacket are in the same fabric. You can absolutely wear a suit casually if you pay attention to the fabric, details and overall design.” —MC
“Wearing a double-breasted suit fully buttoned up with a spread collar and tie will always be sharp, but you can also think of it the same way you’d think of wearing a sport coat or a cardigan – worn open with a pair of jeans and a tee. If you want a look that meets somewhere in the middle, swap out the shirt and tie for a turtleneck or polo-neck sweater.” —TS
“A medium-to-dark gray or a medium-to-dark blue is never going to steer you wrong. And the gray needs to have a little heather to it. Flat gray is not so good.” —SM
“That crisp vertical line on the lower half of your body helps make your silhouette tall and lean.” —MC
“The unassuming gray trouser is your best friend for versatile styling. You can wear them anywhere, from casual places to restaurants or clubs that require dress codes.” —Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology
“Shoes dictate the theme and formality of your outfit: Lace-ups for formal occasions, loafers for casual ones.” —BT
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“You don’t need to sweat a perfect match, just keep them in the same zip code. But a suede belt isn’t great with leather shoes.” —SM
“Linen is a summer fabric and flannel is a winter fabric. They shouldn’t be worn outside of appropriate weather and should never be worn together.” —MR
“If you have a belly, wearing your trousers up over it will create a longer, cleaner leg line.” —MR
“If you are shopping with a brand that offers in-house tailoring services, make use of them. If not, seek recommendations for a tailor from friends whose style you admire. They will make a significant difference in how your clothes fit and feel on your body.” —TS
“Sometimes off-the-rack just does not work for you, and the time and effort you put into finding a suit and altering it might be better used creating a suit with an expert that reflects your personality. Once you do your first custom suit, you will keep going back for more.” —TS